[Limegrntaln]

everything you state makes sense. Except a power outage - that could occur at any time and impact ability to drive long trip the next day.

but otherwise I get your OCD vibes (I’m there too). We’ve had our Prologue for 3 months now and I really don’t think much about charging, because it just works.

I’ll get there, eventually, but I’m not yet. I’m 100% confident in being able to make it work for me.

 

[jbutera]

Here’s my $0.02

You said you have 120 Mile round trip. In my experience that’s about 35% of the total battery capacity on Prologue, or 30kw.

I have 40A Grizzly-e Smart charger at home which can do about 9.2kwh. So for your 120 mile commute it would take just under 3.5 hours to charge. If you can install a 48A charger you’d be slightly faster.

Here’s a recent real example of me doing a charge like that:

The 16 hour session just means I left it plugged in for 16 hours, but it took under 4 to charge.

 

[Limegrntaln]

Here’s my $0.02

You said you have 120 Mile round trip. In my experience that’s about 35% of the total battery capacity on Prologue, or 30kw.

I have 40A Grizzly-e Smart charger at home which can do about 9.2kwh. So for your 120 mile commute it would take just under 3.5 hours to charge. If you can install a 48A charger you’d be slightly faster.

Here’s a recent real example of me doing a charge like that:



















The 16 hour session just means I left it plugged in for 16 hours, but it took under 4 to charge.

Your charger has much better detailed information than my charger. This is Hondas 48v charger. The session time is the 8 hour plugged in time, but the charge started at 12:00am, when my power company switches me to $0.31, so, my charger doesn’t show actual charge time, which is junk. So, 2 hours and 19 minutes to add 87 miles of charge.

 

[jbutera]

Your charger has much better detailed information than my charger. This is Hondas 48v charger. The session time is the 8 hour plugged in time, but the charge started at 12:00am, when my power company switches me to $0.31, so, my charger doesn’t show actual charge time, which is junk. So, 2 hours and 19 minutes to add 87 miles of charge.

I just love my Grizzl-e Smart. They just released a newer model, the Grizzl-e Ultimate which looks great, but I don't have buyer's remorse - I enjoy mine and it's features immensely. And for clarity, I bought mine primarily based on reviews from Tom's State of Charge channel as he does really great analysis (and I was limited to 40A, so my options were slightly limited as compared to 48A chargers).

 

[Limegrntaln]

I just love my Grizzl-e Smart. They just released a newer model, the Grizzl-e Ultimate which looks great, but I don't have buyer's remorse - I enjoy mine and it's features immensely. And for clarity, I bought mine primarily based on reviews from Tom's State of Charge channel as he does really great analysis (and I was limited to 40A, so my options were slightly limited as compared to 48A chargers).

I didn’t even know the difference. The dealer handed me the charger walking out the door and I installed it. Wasn’t even in my mind to look for anything aftermarket. I’ve only looked at the Prologue and the Model Y and S and they both either have Honda Chargers or Tesla wall chargers, so, I had no idea. I need to write the app company to see if they plan to make any improvements like what’s showing on yours, because it would definitely be nice to see a breakdown. There should be a screen for you to set your kwhr in my app, so it can calculate the quick cost. It doesn’t have to be 100% accurate, but charge time based on the preconfigured kwhr calculation, would be nice.

 

[Blastoid]

I would caution hanging your hat on any number. Everything is approximations. I charged last night. The charger says it added 81 miles. The car says it added 67 miles. The curve has it going to the time that I removed the charging cable. It had ended at 6am. I cannot look at kW per hour for this morning yet but a few days back when I charged from 75-100. The charging app says it charged 26.61 kW. Looking at the time it charged, my total load was maybe 38kW. Looking at the other hours before and after, I am certain I used more power than the delta to do everything else (charging between 9:30 and 1pm on Saturday). 26.61kW is about 31% of the battery not 25%. I have gotten into this before. About the only number I truly believe is how many miles driven because I can check that on other sources.

 

[Limegrntaln]

I would caution hanging your hat on any number. Everything is approximations. I charged last night. The charger says it added 81 miles. The car says it added 67 miles. The curve has it going to the time that I removed the charging cable. It had ended at 6am. I cannot look at kW per hour for this morning yet but a few days back when I charged from 75-100. The charging app says it charged 26.61 kW. Looking at the time it charged, my total load was maybe 38kW. Looking at the other hours before and after, I am certain I used more power than the delta to do everything else (charging between 9:30 and 1pm on Saturday). 26.61kW is about 31% of the battery not 25%. I have gotten into this before. About the only number I truly believe is how many miles driven because I can check that on other sources.

Luckily for me, my charging window at $0.31 is from midnight, until 3pm daily. So, that allows me plenty of time to check on the charger and adjust accordingly. I get home from work around 11pm and I can start charging an hour later. Charging should be complete by 3ish am, about the time I start heading to bed. So, I should be able to monitor and ensure things go smoothly.
I already started noticing the juice box charger app, isn’t all that actuate. You have to set the current battery capacity and the ending. When I set the charger to turn off at 80% per the app, the car was only charged to 77%.

 

[jbutera]

I didn’t even know the difference. The dealer handed me the charger walking out the door and I installed it. Wasn’t even in my mind to look for anything aftermarket. I’ve only looked at the Prologue and the Model Y and S and they both either have Honda Chargers or Tesla wall chargers, so, I had no idea. I need to write the app company to see if they plan to make any improvements like what’s showing on yours, because it would definitely be nice to see a breakdown. There should be a screen for you to set your kwhr in my app, so it can calculate the quick cost. It doesn’t have to be 100% accurate, but charge time based on the preconfigured kwhr calculation, would be nice.

I chose the portable charger from Honda, and then bought and installed my own home charger (Grizzl-e) after the fact. This allows us to stow the portable in trunk and it's always with vehicle in case we need it.

 

[Blastoid]

Luckily for me, my charging window at $0.31 is from midnight, until 3pm daily. So, that allows me plenty of time to check on the charger and adjust accordingly. I get home from work around 11pm and I can start charging an hour later. Charging should be complete by 3ish am, about the time I start heading to bed. So, I should be able to monitor and ensure things go smoothly.
I already started noticing the juice box charger app, isn’t all that actuate. You have to set the current battery capacity and the ending. When I set the charger to turn off at 80% per the app, the car was only charged to 77%.

I would recommend setting the charger at 10 or 20 percent to start and 100 percent to end so it doesn’t stop your charge. I have written about this on 2 other posts and generally @jbutera states that the charger shouldn’t stop the charge and I agree with him. Only way to avoid it is set your limits way wide. Or constantly deal with setting limits which is ridiculous

 

[Blastoid]

My portable should come in today. It is only a 16amp system. But if I am stopped for longer than a day which I have known to be and have access to a 110V plug, I should be fine. It can charge as a L2 but is still limited to 16Amps. Problem with trying to charge L2 is having access to a 240V plug and having the male and female ends match. There are different plug standards for 240V.

 

[jbutera]

My portable should come in today. It is only a 16amp system. But if I am stopped for longer than a day which I have known to be and have access to a 110V plug, I should be fine. It can charge as a L2 but is still limited to 16Amps. Problem with trying to charge L2 is having access to a 240V plug and having the male and female ends match. There are different plug standards for 240V.

Most should have a NEMA 14-50, but of course that's not 100% fact...

 

[Limegrntaln]

My portable should come in today. It is only a 16amp system. But if I am stopped for longer than a day which I have known to be and have access to a 110V plug, I should be fine. It can charge as a L2 but is still limited to 16Amps. Problem with trying to charge L2 is having access to a 240V plug and having the male and female ends match. There are different plug standards for 240V.

Understood. I’m still getting the feel for the Enel X Way app, and I’ve only used it once, and that was my result. I’ll take the advice and broaden the charging parameters so the app doesn’t stop the charging process.

Also, with the 16amp pull, you need a clean 20 amp circuit. I plugged a trickle charger level one charger into my 20amp in the garage; and the car was only set to charge at 8amps, and after about 15 minutes, it popped the gfi outlet. It didn’t pop the breaker, but the outlet popped, which also turned the rest of the outlets on that circuit off.

 

[Blastoid]

Understood. I’m still getting the feel for the Enel X Way app, and I’ve only used it once, and that was my result. I’ll take the advice and broaden the charging parameters so the app doesn’t stop the charging process.

Also, with the 16amp pull, you need a clean 20 amp circuit. I plugged a trickle charger level one charger into my 20amp in the garage; and the car was only set to charge at 8amps, and after about 15 minutes, it popped the gfi outlet. It didn’t pop the breaker, but the outlet popped, which also turned the rest of the outlets on that circuit off.

Actually whoever wired my house put the 20 amp that is in my carport on the same circuit as my den which has the TV and its ceiling lights and receptacles. That might have been done when I upgraded the box 5 years ago. It doesn’t make sense as they are distant from each other. I know of a clean one in the house which is rarely used. It is in the laundry room and if I was going to use that, I would be better off using the dryer outlet. I may pay an electrician to reroute the line coming from the carport if it connects near the breaker box with the den stuff. I have multiple breakers that are installed but don’t seem to go anywhere that I can find as I leave the breakers off and nothing seems to be affected. We will see what happens. I love an adventure

 

[Blastoid]

Most should have a NEMA 14-50, but of course that's not 100% fact...

I have an older home. From looking at a NEMA chart, I think I have a 10-30 dryer plug. i do see a 14-50 is listed as what most EVSE use

 

[Limegrntaln]

I have an older home. From looking at a NEMA chart, I think I have a 10-30 dryer plug. i do see a 14-50 is listed as what most EVSE use

Since your house is older, you’re probably ok with a standard dryer plug, if you used it. The newer houses, as my electrician pointed out, have “aluminized copper.” It’s not full copper strand. I believe this is a newer, cheaper house issue, and probably what people are seeing when their 240 plugs are melting from plugging chargers into them.

 

[Blastoid]

That is ugly. What is the circuit breaker and what was the load?

 

[Limegrntaln]

That is ugly. What is the circuit breaker and what was the load?

It was just an example of what I’ve seen in other posts. From memory it was someone plugged a charger into the dryer outlet. I have an open dryer outlet in the laundry room, because my dryer is GAS and the GAS dryer only requires a 110 outlet. But, the electrician commented when I said I could just plug it into the dryer outlet. But my house is a 2017 house and it’s aluminized copper. So, I could have run into the same issue.

 

[Blastoid]

Again it could be a 50 amp load into a 30 amp circuit. I don’t care what the wiring is. It is going to be ugly

 

[Limegrntaln]

Again it could be a 50 amp load into a 30 amp circuit. I don’t care what the wiring is. It is going to be ugly

Or worse, my dryer outlet is only a 2 pole 30amp.

 

[Blastoid]

There was a short time, I think in the late 60s where aluminum wiring was regularly used in houses. There were issues with fires. Codes were changed which allowed for service to be brought to the house with Aluminum wiring but not allowed in internal wiring. This concept of copper clad aluminum is new to me