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Setting charging start time

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16K views 105 replies 23 participants last post by  Limegrntaln  
T
#1 ·
Looks like the software only allows you to set the charging end time, not the start end.
I was going nuts to find the start time charging so that I can set it to charge when the power company has the best rate.
On the screen: "Your vehicle will determine the best time to start charging ready so it's ready by the selected time"
Therefore the vehicle software will set the start time, not the users.
Honda should update the software to allow users to select the charging start time, not the end time.
Anyone has faced this problem?
 
T
#4 ·
But I want to set the charge time to start say 10PM when the utility rate is lower, by setting the end time, I don't know when it will start charging and it can be before 10PM. Other EVs can let you do that.
 
#14 ·
tamdo said:
Looks like the software only allows you to set the charging end time, not the start end.
I was going nuts to find the start time charging so that I can set it to charge when the power company has the best rate.
On the screen: "Your vehicle will determine the best time to start charging ready so it's ready by the selected time"
Therefore the vehicle software will set the start time, not the users.
Honda should update the software to allow users to select the charging start time, not the end time.
Anyone has faced this problem?
Click to expand...
Hi @tamdo,

Have you had the chance to check if there are any updates or workarounds available through the vehicle's app or interface? You might consider reaching out to Honda support directly.
 
#17 ·
I'm still not understanding why people "need" to set the start time. As @Blastoid already demonstrated, it's the same either way: if you have cheaper electric rates from midnight-6am (for example) and set charge complete for 6am, you'll pay lower rates charging as long as it takes under 6 hours to charge. And if it's going to take longer than 6 hours for charge, you're going to pay the higher rate for any hours outside midnight-6am - regardless if you start at midnight or end at 6am.
 
T
#18 ·
I am just used to the other EV that let me set the start time and not work backward from the end time. My other EV allows me to set both the start and end time, for example start at 12AM and end at 7AM regardless of how much is left in the battery.
 
#22 ·
Here’s my $0.02

You said you have 120 Mile round trip. In my experience that’s about 35% of the total battery capacity on Prologue, or 30kw.

I have 40A Grizzly-e Smart charger at home which can do about 9.2kwh. So for your 120 mile commute it would take just under 3.5 hours to charge. If you can install a 48A charger you’d be slightly faster.

Here’s a recent real example of me doing a charge like that:

Image


The 16 hour session just means I left it plugged in for 16 hours, but it took under 4 to charge.
 
L
#23 · (Edited)
jbutera said:
Here’s my $0.02

You said you have 120 Mile round trip. In my experience that’s about 35% of the total battery capacity on Prologue, or 30kw.

I have 40A Grizzly-e Smart charger at home which can do about 9.2kwh. So for your 120 mile commute it would take just under 3.5 hours to charge. If you can install a 48A charger you’d be slightly faster.

Here’s a recent real example of me doing a charge like that:



















The 16 hour session just means I left it plugged in for 16 hours, but it took under 4 to charge.
Click to expand...
Your charger has much better detailed information than my charger. This is Hondas 48v charger. The session time is the 8 hour plugged in time, but the charge started at 12:00am, when my power company switches me to $0.31, so, my charger doesn’t show actual charge time, which is junk. So, 2 hours and 19 minutes to add 87 miles of charge.
Image
Image
 
#26 ·
I would caution hanging your hat on any number. Everything is approximations. I charged last night. The charger says it added 81 miles. The car says it added 67 miles. The curve has it going to the time that I removed the charging cable. It had ended at 6am. I cannot look at kW per hour for this morning yet but a few days back when I charged from 75-100. The charging app says it charged 26.61 kW. Looking at the time it charged, my total load was maybe 38kW. Looking at the other hours before and after, I am certain I used more power than the delta to do everything else (charging between 9:30 and 1pm on Saturday). 26.61kW is about 31% of the battery not 25%. I have gotten into this before. About the only number I truly believe is how many miles driven because I can check that on other sources.
 
L
#27 ·
Luckily for me, my charging window at $0.31 is from midnight, until 3pm daily. So, that allows me plenty of time to check on the charger and adjust accordingly. I get home from work around 11pm and I can start charging an hour later. Charging should be complete by 3ish am, about the time I start heading to bed. So, I should be able to monitor and ensure things go smoothly.
I already started noticing the juice box charger app, isn’t all that actuate. You have to set the current battery capacity and the ending. When I set the charger to turn off at 80% per the app, the car was only charged to 77%.
 
#30 ·
My portable should come in today. It is only a 16amp system. But if I am stopped for longer than a day which I have known to be and have access to a 110V plug, I should be fine. It can charge as a L2 but is still limited to 16Amps. Problem with trying to charge L2 is having access to a 240V plug and having the male and female ends match. There are different plug standards for 240V.
 
L
#37 ·
It was just an example of what I’ve seen in other posts. From memory it was someone plugged a charger into the dryer outlet. I have an open dryer outlet in the laundry room, because my dryer is GAS and the GAS dryer only requires a 110 outlet. But, the electrician commented when I said I could just plug it into the dryer outlet. But my house is a 2017 house and it’s aluminized copper. So, I could have run into the same issue.
 
#40 ·
There was a short time, I think in the late 60s where aluminum wiring was regularly used in houses. There were issues with fires. Codes were changed which allowed for service to be brought to the house with Aluminum wiring but not allowed in internal wiring. This concept of copper clad aluminum is new to me
 
L
#54 ·
I still think it’s the uncertainty of when the car is going to start charging, itself. People just have to be aware of how long it’s going to take at a certain charge point, and make sure to set the charger outside of that charging window. If I want my charger to be done at 5am for work, and I set it at that, and it’s at 10% it’s probably going to take 6-7 hours to charge. If the car decides to start charging at 10pm to be done at 5am, that’s 2 hours of my electricity being at $0.63 kwhr. At midnight, the electricity off peak is only $0.31. It cost me almost $15 just from 10pm to midnight. Versus $7 for 2 hours after midnight.
 
C
#58 ·
tamdo said:
Looks like the software only allows you to set the charging end time, not the start end.
I was going nuts to find the start time charging so that I can set it to charge when the power company has the best rate.
On the screen: "Your vehicle will determine the best time to start charging ready so it's ready by the selected time"
Therefore the vehicle software will set the start time, not the users.
Honda should update the software to allow users to select the charging start time, not the end time.
Anyone has faced this problem?
Click to expand...
Right there with you. I want to set a charging window. Would also love to set a charge rate. I want a charge window when my electricity is cheapest, and I want to de - rate the charger when I am producing solar to charge with and don't want to pull from the grid. both seem like simple software updates.
 
#60 ·
I definitely see a use case for a charge window. Say you only have a L1 charger available, it could take several nights to charge. If you don't need it fully charged immediately why not have a window for the nightly lower rates?
 
C
#61 ·
FWIW my other EV is a modelY and thats how it works. Can set the charge start time. The other setting it has is for charge rate at home. This is also good for people wanting to charge from solar. Would like to be able to have the car only pull 6kwh when solar is producing that, so car doesn't pull from the grid to make up the rest.
 
J
#70 ·
You have to get to the Charge Setting window (Page 104 in the manual). You get there by hitting the gear shaped button at the top right of the charging window (Hit Charging on the Home window to get to the charging window). You have to move the charge setting window up to see Preferred Charge Time. You hit the Preferred Charge Time and it brings up the window where you can turn on schedule charge times for weekdays and weekends. You can then set start times and end times for Off Peak Electricity rates.
 
#75 ·
I always wonder why Tesla owners buy something other than a Tesla. I always figured that it must not really be that great of a vehicle especially if folks are willing to leave over a decade of trying to get it right for an unproven contender.
 
S
#77 ·
An electrician is installing a 220V plug directly from my garage's 30-amp breaker box. He only needs to run it 3 feet. I opted for a portable charger with both 110V and 220V plug in options. I average 9k miles per year, and he's charging me $200 for the installation. Is there anything I should know or be concerned about?
 
S
#84 ·
I found this on Reddit.

I haven’t directly measured it, but from my utility app, I see I’m drawing around 7.6kw per hour, which would translate to around 32 amps at 240v.
Regarding the buffer- you can argue the portable charger has an implicit buffer, but it’s probably not what you’re asking about.
As you may know, a continuous load like an EV must consume no more than 80% of a breaker’s rated current capacity. This, combined with the fact that the NEMA 14-50 outlet can deliver up to 50 amps, means that the 32 amp portable charger is pulling 80% of 80% of the current rating of the minimally-sized breaker allowed to service the 50 amp outlet. In other words, there is a buffer, but it’s an additional 20% margin of safety on top of the required 20% margin of safety specified in the national electrical code for continuous loads. Without that additional 20% buffer, you would be charging at up to 40amps (50 * .8), on a NEMA 14-50 outlet.
50 * .8 * .8 = 32
This extra buffer was probably added to keep costs and cord bulk low on a portable charger, and to minimize your risk of plugging into an improperly-wired outlet that can’t deliver 40 continuous amps without an electrical fire.
Given this, the portable charger doesn’t need any explicit buffer below 32 amps, since it’s technically already below an additional margin of safety relative to the code and so even if it was running at exactly 32 amps continuously, it’s still well below what an up-to-code outlet and wiring can deliver
 
S
#87 ·
Here is additional information you can use in the future,

There are multiple types of 240V outlet.
A NEMA 14-50 outlet is for a 50 amp circuit and is most common for EV charging. If the charger is made to plug into a NEMA 14-50 it will assume it can draw up to 40 amps, and may max out at 32 amps if that’s all the charger supports.
Your electrician will likely install a NEMA 14-30 outlet for your 30-amp breaker.
So you either need a charger that directly supports NEMA 14-30, and therefore knows to only draw 24 amps, or an additional adapter and the ability to set the charger or car to only draw 24 amps.
 
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